Showing posts with label Knives. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Knives. Show all posts

Saturday, 8 April 2017

"Made in Spain" First Impression Review: Cudeman 298 Kc



I love the Spanish-made Cudeman knives I have had the pleasure of reviewing and using some of the vast range.

Cudeman knives are synonymous of quality using premium steels like Bohler or Mova and non-rotting handles like micarta and G10 and in some occasions a nice exotic wood. Cudeman have been making knives for over 25 years and have produced some of the sharpest blades that exceed the demands of their users. Easy to sharpen, Easy to maintain and best of all easy to sharpen when needed.

the Spanish are one of the world's most experienced edged tool makers with a tradition that goes back to when the Romans invaded Spain in 236BC. They came up against warriors armed with Toledo swords and spears. History tells us that the Romans won and that Spanish Toledo steel weaponry became the standard for the Roman legions.

The SPECS:

  • BLADE LENGTH: 11 cm
  • HANDLE LENGTH: 12,5 cm
  • OVERALL LENGTH: 23,5 cm
  • BLADE  THICKNESS: 5,33 mm
  • BLADE WIDTH: 3,8 cm
  • GRIND: FULL FLAT GRIND
  • BLADE FINISH: SATIN FINISH
  • BLADE SHAPE: DROP-POINT
  • STEEL: N695 BÖHLER
  • HARDNESS: 59/61 HRc
  • TANG TYPE: FULL-TANG
  • HANDLE MATERIAL: COCOBOLO WOOD
  • SHEATH: BROWN LEATHER (INCLUDED)
  • KNIFE WEIGHT: 254 gr
  • SHEATH WEIGHT: 286 gr
  • OVERALL WEIGHT: 646 gr

EXTRAS:

  • HOLE FOR SAFETY CORD
  • MULTI-POSITION SHEATH
  • PARACORD 280 cm
  • FIRESTEEL
  • LEATHER LOOP WITH ACCESSORIES
  • SHARPENING STONE + SIGNALLING MIRROR




The 298 KC come with a sturdy multi-position leather sheath, along with a sharpening stone combined with a signalling mirror, a Ferro rod and striker and some paracord.




The knife handle in incredibly ergonomic and very comfortable in the hand, The Back of the blade had a flat grind suitable for striking a Ferro rod if you prefer this to the striker. By personal choice, I prefer the full flat grind on this compared to other knives which have a scandi finish. This will be an excellent knife for game prep in the field along with many other tasks in the field.




Like all Cudeman knives, the 298 Kc shaving sharp right out of the box meaning is ready to use the day you buy one. Overall, this looks one superb all around bush knife.

I am planning to give the 298 Kc a lot of use over the next couple on months and I shall give an in-depth review within a couple of months

Wednesday, 8 March 2017

"Made in Spain" First Impression Review: Cudeman MT5 120-K Wilderness Survival Knife



Cudeman was kind enough to send me their MT5 120-K  Wilderness Survival Knife to test and review. I thought I would post a quick "First Impression" review ahead of the main review so that readers can get an idea of the looks, dimensions and sheath.

The SPECS:


  • Overall length: 22.5 cm 
  • Handle length: 11.5 cm 
  • Handle Material: Cocobolo wood or Micarta (in various colours)
  • Blade length: 11 cm 
  • Blade thickness: 5 mm
  • Steel Blade: Bohler N695 58-60 HRC
  • Weight: 225 g
  • Sheath: Leather sheath

The Cudeman MT5 120-K   came packaged inside their a beautifully presented box.


My first impression after pulling it out of the box was that the MT5 120-K   looked more attractive than most of the stock photos I've seen on the internet. The leather sheath's earth-toned "Deep Brown" colour coupled with the satin cocobolo wood  handle offers a pleasing contrast, with a look that says "serious wilderness knife."



The Cudeman MT5 120-K features a 22.5CM  Stainless 11CM long blade with a full flat ground/spear-point design and a small bevel at the edge. The cocobolo handle is secured to the tang of the knife with three stainless steel Allen screws. One feature I particularly like is the wide lanyard hole in the handle. It should make lashing the knife to a pole for use as an improvised spear easier. MT5 120-K   has a full tang and the blade is just over a 5MM thick.

Sheath


The sheath is a high quality, heavy duty leather with multi-position belt fixings. The knife is held in place by a single retention strap with a heavy button snap.






Comparison Shots


MT5 120-K  next to the Mora Bushcraft Forest




First Impression Summary


The MT5 120-K  looks to be a very promising medium-sized bushcraft/wilderness survival blade. It is comfortable in the hand, and the blade is a simple, no-nonsense design that's built for function over style, something I find appealing. The back of the blade is sharp enough to spark a fire steel or to scrape magnesium or natural tinders for fire-making.

The back of the blade is also ground flat all the way to the tip, making it well-suited to batoning. The leather sheath is very attractive and functional.

The knife came shaving sharp right out of the box, something I've only ever seen with mora knives when they're new. It's nice to see this knife rivals the latter.

Overall, this looks to be a great all around bush knife. The Bohler N695 stainless steel blade should hold an edge well, and the full flat grind should lend itself nicely to wood carving, food prep and batoning. I plan to give the MT5 120-K  a good thrashing over the next couple of  months in the field, and I'll report my findings in an in-depth review sometime in April/May


Monday, 27 February 2017

5 Essential Bushcraft Knife Skills to Learn

The best bushcraft knife in the World will not guarantee it's going to be useful for you in the wilderness.  In order for it to be useful when it really counts,  you need to learn and practice some basic bushcraft knife skills.  In this article, I'm going to show you 5 knife skills that you can start working on today.


The great thing about learning to use your bushcraft knife is that you can do this in your backyard.  Thpractisinging is fun and over time you will become proficient with your bush knife.  Then if the need ever arises in the wilderness or a survival situation you will be prepared and know that you have chosen the right knife for the task.

Carving


Carving is probably going to be one main uses for your bushcraft knife.   This will allow you to make useful tools like spoons, bowls, and fire boards.  Carving is also something that is fun to practice at home and will greatly increase your overall control with your bushcraft knife.

You are also going to find out how well your bushcraft knife does at some of the smaller tasks.  Many people want a thick long blade for their main knife but those knives can suffer sometimes when it comes to the finer tasks like carving.

There are many knives made especially for carving like hook knives.  And while I use and suggest you have these knives as well, I also suggest you learn to do carving with your main bushcraft knife.  That way if the situation ever arises where it's the only knife on your person you know what to expect from that knife and your bushcraft knife skill set.

Batoning


Okay, I'm going to start right off by saying that batoning is controversial among bushcrafters.  Many believe that you shouldn't use your bushcraft knife for batoning, myself included.  I prefer to carry an axe, saw or hatchet to perform wood tasks around the camp.

However, I still feel like it's a skill you should learn and practice because you never know when the situation arises that you don't have an axe or hatchet.  It's better to be prepared and know whether or not your knife can handle the task of batoning when you are at home in your backyard than when you really need it.

Most of your batoning will be done in the form of splitting wood.  You will need to select a bushcraft knife that is a few inches longer than the wood you are trying to split. 

Place the wood on a solid surface standing on end.  Then place your knife on top of that.  Strike out towards the exposed tip of the knife with a small hard piece of wood (the baton).  Keep batoning the knife until you split the wood. 

Try not to hit directly on the tip to protect the knife if possible.  A thicker blade will usually give you better results when batoning and is less like to take damage.  Also, it's important to have a full tang knife blade when doing this to avoid breaking the knife from the handle or scales.

Besides splitting wood, you can also baton with your knife when truncating wood.  This is when you are cutting small diameter wood into shorter pieces.  The procedure is basically the same as splitting wood but instead of placing the wood on its end you are placing it on its side.

Finally, you can baton with your knife to make deeper notches in your wood (similar to a wood chisel) or to also cut off small branches.   Even though not everyone agrees on using their knife for batoning I would still recommend learning the skill and to make sure you have a knife that can hold up to this bushcraft knife skill.

Feather Sticks


Making feather sticks is an important bushcraft skill to learn with your knife.   Feather sticks will allow you to start a fire when wood is damp and other methods might fail.  They will provide quick and intense heat for your fire at the beginning.  Another thing is that by making feather sticks you will improve your other bushcraft knife skills.

A good method is using a light touch to make light slices in the wood.  This will give you nice curls in your feather stick.  By practising this skill you will see how well your knife's blade bevel and sharpness does with this common bushcraft tasks.

Practice this skill in conjunction with your carving and fire starting skill below.  In no time you will be able to make some impressive feather sticks and you will be prepared to light a fire in adverse conditions.

Fire Starting


Making a fire is paramount in survival situations or just general bushcrafting.  It's important to know if your knife can handle this task.  It's also easy to practice at home in your backyard.

One technique to practice is whether or not the spine of your bushcraft blade can ignite a ferrocerium rod.   The Ferro rod is an easy way to start a fire and can be used thousands of times over. 

In order to do this, you will need a knife with a good 90-degree spine in order to throw a good amount of sparks.  You may need to file the knife spine down to achieve this but it's definitely worth the effort.  A good shower of sparks could be the difference between getting a fire started and sleeping in the cold.

Another fire starting technique to learn is flint and steel.  This technique will only work with your knife if it has a carbon blade.  A stainless steel knife blade won't throw off a spark when struck with a piece of flint.   For this reason, many bushcrafters only use carbon knives.

As with all bushcraft skills, practising fire starting at home and often will make your proficient for those times when you need to get a fire started in the wild.  I also suggest practising not only with dry material but also wet material.  The same applies to cold and warm weather.  It's much easier to gain confidence on starting a fire in wet cold conditions knowing your house is just a few yards away.

Chopping


As if batoning wasn't' controversial enough, I give you chopping.   Many people like to use their bushcraft knife to chop down small trees to make shelters or tools around the camp.  This can be very hard on a knife blade and can loosen handle scales and damage knives.

I'm going to say the same thing here as I did with batoning in that it's a good bushcraft knife skill that you can learn at home.  You will know right away if your knife is good for this type of task. 

The most common method of chopping with a knife is getting out towards the end of the handle with your grip.  Some people only use 3 fingers to grip the handle which makes it easier to give the knife some swinging momentum when striking wood.  Just be careful that you still have a decent grip on the knife for your own safety and the safety of others.

You might also find after using your knife for batoning and chopping that it will work but isn't great for those tasks so you will instead choose to carry and axe, saw or hatchet into the woods.  Again better to learn that now that in a situation where you really need it.


Summary


You will notice that the theme of this article is to practice these skills at home before you are in a situation where your life may depend on it.  Not only will you find out what your bushcraft knife is capable of but you will also improve your own bushcraft skill set. 

An okay bushcraft knife is better in someone's hands with expert skills than a great bushcraft knife is in someone lacking good bushcraft knife skills.  By working at this you will become the former and it will be less stressful when you need these skills.

I hope this helped and please if you have any tips of your own, comment with your thoughts below

Monday, 5 December 2016

Mora Pro Robust Knife Review



Mora knives have been crafted in Östnor for over a century. Once they were made in every home by local craftsmen who passed down their skills from generation to generation. Today those skills are all under one roof and no matter who you talk to in our factory they can all tell a family story in which knife manufacture plays a central part!

I bought this knife to use as a secondary, smaller knife when I am camping or kicking around the woods. For that purpose, it is extremely handy. The blade is carbon steel and ground to a zero edge scandi. This makes it bite very good into wood as well as almost everything else I have tried it on. Straight from the factory, this knife will shave hair and slice paper without any problem. The blade is under 4" and just seems to be about right for this knife. There is plenty of belly to this blade which is different than some of the Mora blades. It will whittle very good one minute and field dress game the next.

The Mora Pro Robust uses the robust blade thickness of 1/8". For a Mora that is very stout. They have moved the scandi bevel up a bit however so they are able to have a sharp 27-degree edge even with the thicker blade. The normal thickness Mora blades are about 23 or 24 degrees. When I have tested these knives side by side I will admit that the normal 2.2 mm thickness knives do tend to slide a bit easier into wood. Of course, the slightly larger angle will hold up just a bit better to hard use. However, the difference is minimal. This thickness feels very stout and gives you more confidence to use it roughly. I have even pried some bark off of a tree to shave tinder without any ill effects. (Prying is not recommended, though, for ANY knife).

The blade spine is not finished sharp. If you want to have the sharp 90-degree spine that everyone uses for bushcraft you will need to grind it gently. It won't take much to get where it throws sparks from a Ferro rod or scrapes bark from your marshmallow stick.

The handle is extremely comfortable and secure. Someone with very large hands might find it a little too short however. My Medium-large hands fit right in between the guards both in a normal hold and in a reverse grip for chest lever cutting. The rubber over mold is slightly tacky and makes controlling the knife very easy.

The sheath is the basic plastic one you get from Mora. The knife snaps in a little but will come out if inverted and shaken. A little bit of OD green shock cord provides good retention for me. The sheath clips onto a belt easily. It also has a drain hole in case things get really wet for you.

With minimal care, carbon steel would be fine for camp use and is easier to sharpen.  It looks like a good compromise with added strength while keeping with the inexpensive and utilitarian aspects of the Mora knives. This would be excellent for food prep, cleaning fish, general repairs and camp stuff, as well as whittling and bushcraft projects.

I would say that for the price of this knife you absolutely cannot go wrong.

Saturday, 23 July 2016

UK Knife Law

I would like to try to clear a few things up about knife law in the UK as there still seems to be a lot of confusion out there. We are not professing to be any form of experts on the subject but we hope the information given on this page will help act as a useful guide.

Please note that this information is supplied for your information only and in all cases it is up to you to make up your own mind. You need to also take into account the changing face of Devolution in Britain and the laws may change depending on where you are in the UK.

I am NOT Solicitor or Law Maker, so please follow the links at the bottom for more official information, or speak to a solicitor for legal advice. This information should not be relied upon in a court of law and you should always consult a Solicitor on legal matters, they are the experts in the Law and will be able to give you the best all round advice. Remember even if you believe yourself to be completely innocent of any crime you should, in all cases, consult a Solicitor.

"We have some pretty sensible knife laws in the UK that allow you to use a knife for it’s intended purpose – REMEMBER it is a tool for doing a job and it has, and always will be an offence to use it as a weapon.

The law is quite clear but can be a little vague in places, whether this is intentional I am unsure but it is likely that it is to allow a sensible Policeman to use his discretion as there are no “Black and White” cases when it comes to the law.

The Criminal Justice Act (1988) says that you may carry a knife with a blade length of 3.0" or less so long as it is capable of folding and does not lock -  so no fixed blade knives as an EDC!! This is for your “Every Day Carry” (commonly referred to as an EDC) or Pocket/Pen knife.

Remember, be sensible - There are exceptions to the EDC laws and you should fully research what they are but a knife has no place at a football match, in a pub, nightclub or school. This is not an exhaustive list and there are other areas of our lives that you shouldn't carry.

If you wish or need to carry a larger knife then you really need to have “Reasonable Cause”. That means that you must be able to prove that you had a genuine reason for carrying the knife. A “Reasonable Cause” can constitute a whole host of scenarios such as:


  • You may carry a larger bladed tool if it is associated with your work, for example, a Butcher or Chef may carry his knives to work. A builder or electrician has great need of a Stanley type knife for daily use.



  • If it is associated with your sport, for example a fisherman may carry a larger knife for fileting, cutting line etc., a hunter may carry a  fixed blade hunting knife of almost any size, if you are camping you may need a larger tool for any manner of tasks


These should all constitute a “Reasonable Cause” and you should not have any issues or dilemmas with the law -  BUT don't forget it is there! If you stop off anywhere on your way home take the knife off of your belt and put it in the boot of your car. If on foot, be sensible, take it off your belt and put it at the bottom of your rucksack. These actions will demonstrate that you have made the tool as inaccessible as possible and not available in “The Heat of the Moment”. Ignorance is not a defence in law and you cannot simply say "I forgot".

REMEMBER – Do not give the Police a hard time, just follow instructions and if you feel you are correct in your actions seek advice from a Solicitor after the fact to argue your case. DO NOT stand there and argue with the Police as you will not win or convince them they are wrong!!!

For more comprehensive information follow the links below to:

CRIMINAL JUSTICE ACT 1988 - Section XI "Miscelleaneous" - Subsection 139 - 142 - "Articles with Blades or Points and Offensive Weapons

THE OFFENSIVE WEAPONS ACT 1996

THE KNIVES ACT 1997

http://basc.org.uk/firearms/knives-advice-and-guidance/​

http://www.legislation.gov.uk/